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photographie-irie > Grottos and More Grottos, Halong Bay, Vietnam      Pop through a long underground tunnel onto the other side to find classic junks plying the waters of the bay. Certain areas get the most traffic and can become quite congested, especially for overnights on the junks in popular coves. Knowing this in advance should help you plan to avoid the common fare as much as possible. Unless you drive the process, the elaborate Halong Bay tour system tends to move you along as just another part of the lemming herd.
photographie-irie > Vietnam People's Army (VPA) Soldiers Before Chasing Me Away, Uncle Ho Mausoleum, Hanoi, Vietnam After visiting the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum in Hanoi, the official tour continues to past the Preseidental Palace built by the French at the turn into the 20th century, and the stilt house where Uncle Ho lived in the 1960's. In this land of paradox, Uncle Ho is preserved in the Mausoleum although his wish and philosophy was cremation. He refused to live in the Presidential Palace, instead living out back in a modest stilt house modeled in ethnic minority home style. And these soldiers on the tail end of the official tour route doing weapons check did not want their pictures taken, generally not being appoached by touring visitors. Although they may feel visually and conceptually intimidating, all my numerous encounters with soldiers and army officials was quite polite and ultimately friendly. In non-warring present day Vietnam the peoples' army is utilized as a general public service body as well as in traditional military capacity. It maintains political and economic responsibilities in addition to it's military role. Service is compulsory, with military authority extending through self defence forces, the militia, and local forces that act on their level to protect the people.
photographie-irie > President Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Hanoi, Vietnam A must experience to round out a visit to Vietnam, this walk through the official tour of hero Uncle Ho's resting place is quite a trip. The building itself is imposing and stately to the max, modeled in the fashion of Lenin's Tomb. Security is extremely tight, with access limited to a few hours in the morning for the long lines of the visiting throng. Cameras and electronic devices are prohibited, with an elaborate baggage check system to hold prohibited items while you show your respects. Dress and behavior must be respectfully appropriate, otherwise expect denial of entry, ejection, or instructions from armed guards to end offensive behaviors like going too slow, going too fast, having hands in your pockets, making noise, or showing any disrespect. The official guards in snappy dress whites showing the ultimate in military discipline fit the experience to perfection. If you are good, then you get the privilege of seeing Uncle Ho under glass, looking mighty good for the frail old dead guy that he is. He used to spend a couple of months each year getting buffed up on his annual trip to Russia for that purpose, but it's rumored they now may do this in Hanoi, whatever they previously did so well in Russia to maintain his excellent appearance. Every aspect of the visit is effective in creating an optimal memorial for the father of this great nation, and instilling an awe as you go through the paces and eventually get the privilege of seeing and honoring President Ho. Well worth the surreal experience.
photographie-irie > Little Hmong Parasol Smile, Coc Ly, Vietnam      This is the normal reaction I tend to get when offering to take a picture. Showing the result on the back of the camera can make you a big center of attention.
photographie-irie > Gas Station, Hmong Style, Coc Ly, Vietnam      Horses and one's own feet are still used to get around in most cases, but if you have a motorbike, you need gas. These ladies provide. Typical gas stations are available on the open road in and around cities in Vietnam, but a good deal of petrol is sold across developing economies from bottles such as these, especially in hinterlands like this where there's no prospect for a real gas station. Regular or ethyl?
photographie-irie > Flower Hmong Girl Guarding Umbrellas, Coc Ly, Vietnam       Off to the side of the market was this girl appearing not too sure of me. With that bamboo staff in hand, I gave her gave her wide berth. Actually, after taking her picture she gave me a big smile upon seeing her image in the camera. Digital photography is a great ice breaker for the immediacy of the reward, especially with kids. But some isolated peoples without much alien contact are not quite comfortable with the concept, thinking you may be stealing a part of them in taking their picture. Others, although not many, wish to be paid. Common courtesy and personal respect is called for in getting some tacit permission to take pictures if they are so inclined, defering if they are not. My personal policy is not to set the precedent of paying to take a picture, but rather to attempt engagment in some other manner. In this way the actual process of photography can bring you closer to peoples and cultures that otherwise might well remain fascinating but much more distant.
photographie-irie > Flower Hmong Socializing, Coc Ly, Vietnam      More ladies doing what ladies do everywhere, in the midst of Coc Ly Tuesday market. The handsome Vietnamese chappy behind with sunglasses on his head, looking to the left, was my guide to adventure in places I could never find on my own. Dinh, or Dingdong as he jokingly called himself, spoke excellent Australian English. When we first set out for Muong Houm he tried to give me the shake, to test me and hopefuly demonstrate how crazy was my idea of attempting these difficult destinations that were most likely beyond my ridership. Once he accepted his fate after determining I could keep up, cruising the bikes with him on the open road was often as much fun as the destinations we were heading to and from. I can't say enough about seeing the world on a motorbike, following a great guide like Dinh on his own bike, who can then interpret, explain and facilitate you both going exactly where you want to go, on your schedule. Quite different than either getting stuck with a tour group or getting hopelessly lost on your own where maps, directions and roads that match do not exist.
photographie-irie > Smoke the Bong, Coc Ly, Vietnam      Throughout Vietnam, locals do the courtesy of offering you the same tobacco bong hits that they love to smoke. A very social event, they get a kick out of seeing foreigners give it a go. Just another way to break the ice and become closer to the people, as you set up for some serious nicotine dizziness and potential naussea. Their suggested remedy is another hit. Oftentimes in these festive markets or while having a beer in small spots where tourists are not, the bong comes out as token of friendship. That's a pile of strong local tobacco next to the candle. Just as other vendors have their goods set up and spread out for sale at their chosen corner of the market, this guy and his equivalents in other markets set up their bong station for patrons wanting a taste, or to buy some product for the home.
photographie-irie > Flower Hmong Woman Selling Purses, Hats, Coc Ly, Vietnam      On another day trip motorbike ride from Sapa, the Tuesday market in Coc Ly is not so islolated as Muong Houm, but attracts a vibrant gathering of ethnic minorities selling their wares. This wonderful Flower Hmong lady smiled me into buying purse after purse as gifts I did not need. Carrying her store around her neck and on her head, getting away was not an option. She almost sold me a hat, but there's only so much room on a bike. Now I wish I bought three.
Grottos and More Grottos, Halong Bay, Vietnam     

Pop through a long underground tunnel onto the other side to find classic junks plying the waters of the bay. Certain areas get the most traffic and can become quite congested, especially for overnights on the junks in popular coves. Knowing this in advance should help you plan to avoid the common fare as much as possible. Unless you drive the process, the elaborate Halong Bay tour system tends to move you along as just another part of the lemming herd.
photographie-irie > Grottos and More Grottos, Halong Bay, Vietnam      Pop through a long underground tunnel onto the other side to find classic junks plying the waters of the bay. Certain areas get the most traffic and can become quite congested, especially for overnights on the junks in popular coves. Knowing this in advance should help you plan to avoid the common fare as much as possible. Unless you drive the process, the elaborate Halong Bay tour system tends to move you along as just another part of the lemming herd.
Grottos and More Grottos, Halong Bay, Vietnam     

Pop through a long underground tunnel onto the other side to find classic junks plying the waters of the bay. Certain areas get the most traffic and can become quite congested, especially for overnights on the junks in popular coves. Knowing this in advance should help you plan to avoid the common fare as much as possible. Unless you drive the process, the elaborate Halong Bay tour system tends to move you along as just another part of the lemming herd.
See photo in original gallery.
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