photographie-irie > Women Net Fishing Lake, Near Ban Thalat, Laos          

About 50 miles and a couple hours motorbike ride north of Vientiane, women fish for dinner in the peaceful lake setting where big mountains start to rise behind the photographer. Cone hats indicate these may be Vietnamese immigrants, or just that they are being practical in spite of general Lao distaste for Vietnamese hegemony. In and around Laos, the country is pronounced as "Lao", and the ethnic majority constituting about 70% of the population are called "Lao" rather than Laotian. Ethnic minorities like the Hmong dot rural and mountain areas outside the city, some maintaining a tenuous and challenging existence amidst past and continuing government repression. Outsiders attempt to group all inhabitants of this country as "Laotian" based upon the country's political boundary, but the strong and unique heritage of the ethnic minorities like the Hmong, Dao, Yao, Tai dumm, Shan, and 88 other peoples occupying Laos defies any attempt to address them as Laotian in Laos, especially given recent internal political history. But for all the warnings of potential dangers to visitors regarding possible hostilities relative to these ethnic and political struggles, I encountered nothing but friendly interaction among the wonderfully mellow and friendly Lao, Hmong, Dao, and all the others I met, and even with the military soldiers. Certain roads traveled on motorbike and bus were cautioned as being unsafe for tourist travel by the US State Department and equivalent agencies of Australia and others. Yet when I passed mountain peoples with rifles I guessed it was for hunting, and the only thing they gave me was smiles and assistance when my motorbike broke down. Perhaps I wasn't particularly concerned because you get used to automatic weapons traveling the world these days, or maybe because I live in Alaska where guns are commonplace. Shit can happen anywhere, like at Columbine High School in Colorado, where the State Department would have issued travel warnings for Americans visiting Colorado if it were a foreign country in the way the State Department maintains warnings for lesser events when they occurred years ago in Laos or Thailand or Bali or Cambodia. Local information is always your best guide as long as in getting local you don't drop yourself in the middle of something already happening. These fishing ladies did not shoot me.
photographie-irie > Boat to Market, Hoi An, Vietnam          

The big, everpresent smile passing underneath the Hoi An River bridge on way to morning market. Baskets full of fish and that relaxed low crouch on the stern of the small boat, showing such comfortable stability from a life near and on the water.
photographie-irie > Another Hoi An Sunrise, Hoi An Viet Nam          

Clearly Hoi An was one of my favorite places along my journey, where weather patterns and the close proximity to the coast create fertile ground for dramatic sunrise colors. Ocean haze presents diffractive layers changing colors moment by moment as the morning unfolds. The bustle of river activity always seems to offer at least one human counterpoint to this gentle unfolding of the day, even in a less active moment such as this.
photographie-irie > Bamboo Basket Boat at Sea, Nha Trang, Vietnam          

These amazing basket boats are woven from bamboo, and lacquered in some fashion to make them waterproof.  They are lightweight and easy to carry from place to place, apparently good in shallow water because of little draft, and often used as tenders for larger boats. But they are also utilized for fishing and getting from place to place in their own right, as this guy demonstrates. His curious use of a plastic pot is atypical for steerage or propulsion, as normally a paddle is used in seasaw fashion to advance the vessel at walking pace. Perhaps he is bailing, as appears to be the case, but the boat does seem to be setting well in the water. Controlling these boats is another mystery to the uninitiated, as you might well imagine, in that they tend to just go round and round like a spinning bowl in the water when powered with improper technique. One of those things you have to know how to do, looking somewhat easy as you observe local use, but quite baffling without proper instruction and lots of frustrating practice. They tend to be freqently seen throughout central Vietnam. Where bamboo basketry of all sorts is commonplace, this is one of the larger, more inventive uses. People baskets, intended to contain the water on the outside rather than within.
photographie-irie > Bamboo Basket Boat Beach, Nha Trang, Vietnam          

On a beach at the northern end of Nha Trang, looking south down the coastline. The city of Nha Trang proper lies on the other side of the point, to the interior, while the tourist sector extends south from well below the other side of the point down along the beach. These bamboo basket boats are probably tenders for the fishing boats buoyed offshore, but could also be lieing in wait for trips to sea on their own, up or down the coast. Can you imagine trying to control one of these, especially in less than calm water?
photographie-irie > Occheuteal Beach, Sihanoukville, Cambodia     

Looking from the less developed southern end of Occheuteal Beach, toward what is called Serendipity Beach at its northern portion. Serendipity is where most foreign visitors congregate in a low key assemblege of on and near the beach huts, restaurants, and slightly more upscale facitlities. As one walks the length of the beach from Serendipity toward this spot, the composition of facilities and people you see becomes more local, with a good mix right in between. Nearer to this end facilities diminish, and the beach takes a more natural flavor. Further south behind this point lies Otres Beach, another serious step down (at least for now) in terms of activity level and facilities. A perfect place to chill and avoid more serious trappings, while still able to feed and lounge and drink and swim.
photographie-irie > Fishing Boat, Occheuteal Beach, Sihanoukville, Cambodia     

Beached fishing boat and one coming in, traps and nets on the beach.  Continuing livelihood for locals and great fresh food for the beach, offered almost continuously by ladies walking the shoreline as you lounge with your tropical drink. Although not as dramatic as some of the karst strewn southern Thai beaches, the mellow and mixed crowd dyanamic makes these Cambodian beaches and islands a most attractive alternate experience.
photographie-irie > About This Gallery     

I traveled the SE Asia loop counterclockwise in the first half of 2007, from Thailand thru Cambodia, Vietnam and then Laos. After a week in Bangkok, it was off to southern Thailand for an easygoing beach-based entry into these new Asian cultures. Cambodia expanded quickly beyond Angkor Wat to include Phnom Penh and the beaches of Kampong Som, once I discovered the energy and peaceful dynamic of living this particular edge. Vietnam similarly demanded twice the time I'd anticipated due to it's own captivating cultures, as I took the south to north 'open bus' that made befriending fellow travelers easy. Laos was just a possibility for this journey from the start, until repeated encounters with other travelers who had already been. Inquiries about Laos were intriguingly met with a common, tilted stare at the sky, followed by a softly intoned, ‘Oohhhh... Laos....’ Hard not to go after that. And then even more difficult to leave. Perhaps the most relaxed people and place I’ve ever encountered, where time operates on a whole different continuum. The route back to Bangkok then took me through northern Thailand, also most alluring for its own unique mellow nature, if inevitably less so than Laos. These images highlight this long, meandering journey. I hope you enjoy.
Women Net Fishing Lake, Near Ban Thalat, Laos     

About 50 miles and a couple hours motorbike ride north of Vientiane, women fish for dinner in the peaceful lake setting where big mountains start to rise behind the photographer. Cone hats indicate these may be Vietnamese immigrants, or just that they are being practical in spite of general Lao distaste for Vietnamese hegemony. In and around Laos, the country is pronounced as "Lao", and the ethnic majority constituting about 70% of the population are called "Lao" rather than Laotian. Ethnic minorities like the Hmong dot rural and mountain areas outside the city, some maintaining a tenuous and challenging existence amidst past and continuing government repression. Outsiders attempt to group all inhabitants of this country as "Laotian" based upon the country's political boundary, but the strong and unique heritage of the ethnic minorities like the Hmong, Dao, Yao, Tai dumm, Shan, and 88 other peoples occupying Laos defies any attempt to address them as Laotian in Laos, especially given recent internal political history. But for all the warnings of potential dangers to visitors regarding possible hostilities relative to these ethnic and political struggles, I encountered nothing but friendly interaction among the wonderfully mellow and friendly Lao, Hmong, Dao, and all the others I met, and even with the military soldiers. Certain roads traveled on motorbike and bus were cautioned as being unsafe for tourist travel by the US State Department and equivalent agencies of Australia and others. Yet when I passed mountain peoples with rifles I guessed it was for hunting, and the only thing they gave me was smiles and assistance when my motorbike broke down. Perhaps I wasn't particularly concerned because you get used to automatic weapons traveling the world these days, or maybe because I live in Alaska where guns are commonplace. Shit can happen anywhere, like at Columbine High School in Colorado, where the State Department would have issued travel warnings for Americans visiting Colorado if it were a foreign country in the way the State Department maintains warnings for lesser events when they occurred years ago in Laos or Thailand or Bali or Cambodia. Local information is always your best guide as long as in getting local you don't drop yourself in the middle of something already happening. These fishing ladies did not shoot me.
photographie-irie > Women Net Fishing Lake, Near Ban Thalat, Laos          

About 50 miles and a couple hours motorbike ride north of Vientiane, women fish for dinner in the peaceful lake setting where big mountains start to rise behind the photographer. Cone hats indicate these may be Vietnamese immigrants, or just that they are being practical in spite of general Lao distaste for Vietnamese hegemony. In and around Laos, the country is pronounced as "Lao", and the ethnic majority constituting about 70% of the population are called "Lao" rather than Laotian. Ethnic minorities like the Hmong dot rural and mountain areas outside the city, some maintaining a tenuous and challenging existence amidst past and continuing government repression. Outsiders attempt to group all inhabitants of this country as "Laotian" based upon the country's political boundary, but the strong and unique heritage of the ethnic minorities like the Hmong, Dao, Yao, Tai dumm, Shan, and 88 other peoples occupying Laos defies any attempt to address them as Laotian in Laos, especially given recent internal political history. But for all the warnings of potential dangers to visitors regarding possible hostilities relative to these ethnic and political struggles, I encountered nothing but friendly interaction among the wonderfully mellow and friendly Lao, Hmong, Dao, and all the others I met, and even with the military soldiers. Certain roads traveled on motorbike and bus were cautioned as being unsafe for tourist travel by the US State Department and equivalent agencies of Australia and others. Yet when I passed mountain peoples with rifles I guessed it was for hunting, and the only thing they gave me was smiles and assistance when my motorbike broke down. Perhaps I wasn't particularly concerned because you get used to automatic weapons traveling the world these days, or maybe because I live in Alaska where guns are commonplace. Shit can happen anywhere, like at Columbine High School in Colorado, where the State Department would have issued travel warnings for Americans visiting Colorado if it were a foreign country in the way the State Department maintains warnings for lesser events when they occurred years ago in Laos or Thailand or Bali or Cambodia. Local information is always your best guide as long as in getting local you don't drop yourself in the middle of something already happening. These fishing ladies did not shoot me.
Women Net Fishing Lake, Near Ban Thalat, Laos     

About 50 miles and a couple hours motorbike ride north of Vientiane, women fish for dinner in the peaceful lake setting where big mountains start to rise behind the photographer. Cone hats indicate these may be Vietnamese immigrants, or just that they are being practical in spite of general Lao distaste for Vietnamese hegemony. In and around Laos, the country is pronounced as "Lao", and the ethnic majority constituting about 70% of the population are called "Lao" rather than Laotian. Ethnic minorities like the Hmong dot rural and mountain areas outside the city, some maintaining a tenuous and challenging existence amidst past and continuing government repression. Outsiders attempt to group all inhabitants of this country as "Laotian" based upon the country's political boundary, but the strong and unique heritage of the ethnic minorities like the Hmong, Dao, Yao, Tai dumm, Shan, and 88 other peoples occupying Laos defies any attempt to address them as Laotian in Laos, especially given recent internal political history. But for all the warnings of potential dangers to visitors regarding possible hostilities relative to these ethnic and political struggles, I encountered nothing but friendly interaction among the wonderfully mellow and friendly Lao, Hmong, Dao, and all the others I met, and even with the military soldiers. Certain roads traveled on motorbike and bus were cautioned as being unsafe for tourist travel by the US State Department and equivalent agencies of Australia and others. Yet when I passed mountain peoples with rifles I guessed it was for hunting, and the only thing they gave me was smiles and assistance when my motorbike broke down. Perhaps I wasn't particularly concerned because you get used to automatic weapons traveling the world these days, or maybe because I live in Alaska where guns are commonplace. Shit can happen anywhere, like at Columbine High School in Colorado, where the State Department would have issued travel warnings for Americans visiting Colorado if it were a foreign country in the way the State Department maintains warnings for lesser events when they occurred years ago in Laos or Thailand or Bali or Cambodia. Local information is always your best guide as long as in getting local you don't drop yourself in the middle of something already happening. These fishing ladies did not shoot me.
See photo in original gallery.